Christmas in July

Sweeping over the ocean, Friday 22^nd July, we circled Christmas Island (CI) before landing. There were so many more settlements with houses and other buildings than I remembered. Lyn, who had been my primary school teacher, made the same comment.  It was surreal being back after leaving by phosphate ship 58 years ago.  And now here I was, about to have a very merry Christmas in July!

On arrival, Neesha divvied out the hire cars.  I was told there were two men staying at the same accommodation as Vi-Lay and myself, with whom we would be sharing a vehicle.  They appointed me as the designated driver.  Neesha filled out the paperwork, then handed me the keys and a map of the island.  We squeezed our luggage into the back and one large suitcase behind the front seats between the guys.  Unfortunately there weren’t as many hire cars as requested, so instead of four in each car, we had to take five, as well as all our luggage.  Praise God we were able to leave some of the luggage for others to bring later.  We squeezed another passenger in without her luggage and set off for the Settlement.

It was such a delight to recognise different places as I drove to our accommodation, taking the notorious steep hill up from the settlement, which as a child I thought was called ‘The Ink Line’ (believing it was named because of how it was marked on the map as a line made with an ink pen) but was actually called The Incline (now Murray Road).  There’s now a walking trail called The Incline which was the old rail track where the phosphate wagons were wenched up.  Dropping off our extra passenger, we found our guest house, unloaded the car, located our room, which again was a twin share, although much smaller than the accommodation on Cocos.  Here we were without a sitting room area, so it was quite cramped, with arm chairs in a small space along one wall.

We basically dumped our gear, then rallied those who wanted to catch the Flying Fish Café food truck, the only one on the island. It was here I had heard they sold satay, similar to what we used to buy when swimming at Flying Fish Cove (FFC) as kids. Reading their menu, we saw that they also sold other dishes, including Western ones. We ordered the satay with peanut sauce but unfortunately they had run out of the cubed rice, which was very disappointing. I bought enough for the three of us and took it back to Jen, who was staying at the Cocos Padang Lodge where we eat together. It was better than Cocos, but again not as good as I had remembered from childhood.

Jen’s accommodation was very flash compared to our place, as it had separate locking bedrooms off a main lounge with a fully equipped kitchen and laundry with washing power provided. While Vi-Lay returned to unpack, Jen and I walked back to FFC and bought Chicken Curry and Nasi Biriyani for her dinner and sat by the jetty enjoying the early evening before walking back to our separate lodgings.

On Saturday I was up early to jog. I recognised my old school, which has been extended and is now a child care centre. Then on past the last houses in the Settlement, heading towards the golf course, past the English, Malay and Chinese cemeteries, before coming back. On the way, I turned off the main drag, as I wanted to find our old home. I found The Rumah Tinggi Lodge, recognising it as the old bakery and single persons mess. I knew our home was right next door to this landmark. As I walked around the back of the lodge and up the far side, I spotted our house through a border hedge. A large veranda had been built on, but I recognised the red steps underneath it. The road between the lodge and the house was gone, but it was definitely our old home. I walked down a back road past where the old maids home was, to the neighbouring home, then down to the front, where I took some photos of both houses to send to my childhood friend Debbie Par, who also lived next door in the early 1960’s. It made me quite emotional seeing all these familiar childhood places.

Back at camp there were rumblings about the lack of cars and people taking them without seeing if anyone else what to go, leaving people behind and all sorts of confusion.  It was then I remembered my friend in Perth, Clive, who has a home on Christmas and had also spoken about a car.  I had talked to him before leaving asking if he would be here when we were.  He mentioned that he would be coming later in July.  I sent him an SMS (praise God my new Boost SIM works on the Telstra network and had mobile reception even though no data reception) asking when he was coming and if I could borrow his car.  It took him awhile to get back to me, I was unsure if he actually received my message, so continued with our day’s plans. Firstly washing some of our cloths at Jen’s accommodation as ours was a money operated machine and hers free with the room.  While waiting for it to finish we three set off for a walk to the visitors information centre to pick up information on island walks and activities.  Then a stop at the bakery to check out their wares before stopping at the grocery shop.  This was the only grocery shop close to all the tourist accommodation and, we later found out, more expensive than local shops.  We were so surprised at how much our simple shop cost including $16 per kilo for bananas!

En route back we met and chatted to a local who was interested that both Jen and I were born on the island.  I had forgotten we had a time limit to stick to. Our chat had now made us run late for our rendezvous at 10am with Hash group.  Leaving Jen and Vi-Lay at the rendezvous, I dash home to unpack our groceries into fridge before joining the group in a convoy of car going to the east end of the island.  Our first stop just pass the golf course at the Grotto.  Both Jen and I remember we often visited The Grotto as a child.  This is where a fresh water pool meets the sea in a cave just five mins drive from the Settlement. It was just as I remember it, sparkling, crystal clear, cool, aqua blue water which is sucked in and out of the cave though a hole in the rock connecting it to the sea.

Ethel Beach was our second stop with stairs descending the cliff to a narrow stretch of sand which was rapidly disappearing as the tide came in.  Jen and I ventured out for a quick look while Vi-Lay and others clung to the stairs.  Our third stop, Lily Beach on the other hand was very quaint, hemmed in by rocky cliffs. Before swimming here, we walked along the boardwalk over the volcanic rocks were we saw nesting Booby birds.  Back at Lily Beach there were two beach shelters one of which was occupied by our group and the other by a Malay family celebrating their daughter’s scholarship with a chocolate cake which they shared with us.  One of the Hash ladies said “oh you should study in Australia”, their reply was “We ARE in Australia.  She is going to study in Perth“.  We laughed as it is so easy to forget on this tropical island we ARE still in Australia.

Before leaving Lily Beach I took a dip in the ocean in the rocky pool under the shadow of the overhanging rocky volcanic cliff which formed a cool shelter from the sun.  Then back to the cars we kept our eyes open for the entrance to the golf course lookout.  Thinking we had found it we piled out of the cars and began walking down a very steep incline through the jungle.  Some way down I decided to turn back, it was then I noticed a communication tower.  I tried calling the unknown missed call from earlier that morning.  It was Clive’s friend Bruza from here on the island. Clive had contacted him to let him know I could borrow his car. Clive unfortunately was unable to get a flight up until August.  What a blessing for me and for the group, this meant Vi-Lay and I had our own car to go to church and get around without having to ask for one of the groups hire cars.  I was delighted how the Lord works to provide all our needs according to the riches of His glory in Christ Jesus.  (Phil 4:19 ESV)

The Hashers needed to be back at the Settlement by 2:30pm. By this time Bruza had dropped off Clive’s car in front of our room. Later that day, Jen and I asked Lyn, who had been left behind this morning, if she wanted to join us for a drive down memory lane. We had a bit of trouble starting Clive’s car, so I asked Jen to have a go, as she also has a Rav 4 in QLD. All four of us, Jen, Vi-Lay, Lyn and I then drove down Gaze Road back along where I had jogged, to the golf course to charge the engine battery. On our return, we stopped at the Childcare Centre where Lyn had taught me over 58 yrs ago. It was nearly twice the size of what it was when she was teaching. From here I showed them Rumah Tinggi Lodge Lyn reminisced about the times eating here, meeting other singles on the island and where she and my Mum met their future husbands. From here we walked around to see our old house before returning to the car.

Later that evening, Jen, Vi-Lay and I went for another walk around the back of the buildings in front of our accommodation. I suspected the row of green roofs, which were now different accommodation for rent, were once the hospital buildings. Further around the point, we saw more familiar homes, including the Powell’s old house (friends from the island). We were unsure about where our first home was, where Mum and Dad had lived when first married and where both Tricia and I had lived before Jen and Kat were born. Jen later found out which one it was through her contact with the Powells. We continued on down a road in front of these buildings until we reached Clive’s home, before returning to our individual accommodation blocks.

Sunday I woke just after 3am but dozed off again around 4:30 waking feeling weary so didn’t go for my jog.  I’m rather pleased as we did so much walking that day. I started working on this blog while I waited for Bruza as we were concerned about a light on the dash and the trouble we had trying to start the engine.  He reassured us it wasn’t the oil light and a message from Clive advising us not to leave the key in the ignition as that seemed to make starting difficult and the reason for the starter leads in the back.

After getting ready for church we tried starting the car so many times with it tuning over but not igniting (possibly needing a tune up).  Then I think I flooded it so we sat and prayed. By this time some of the other ladies had come out to offer us their hire car but we were determined.  The Lord came through with answered prayer once more and we were off to church.  Here we met Iris and Richard first generation Christians, now retired Malaysian pastors having pastored here 22yrs only stepping down two years ago. We asked if they would like to join us for lunch after the service.  We also met one of four preachers from the congregation who take it in turn till a more permanent pastor arrives. There is usually around 30 people from the local Mandarin and English speaking community as well as FIFO workers and occasional tourists like ourselves.  It was a lovely service and pertinent message about putting God first in our lives.  Fellowship after with some lovely garlic bread which I abstained from being on FODMAP.  The four of us then drove to lunch at Lucky Ho before going for a drive around Poon Saan.  We were shown where to buy the local Malay kuih/deserts and savoury dishes which are sold from 6-9am week days. Richard also wanted to show us a very nice garden, Iris laughed as we pulled into their place at Drumsite to show us around their garden.  They had a large variety of tropical fruits including the only red fruiting cashew on the island.  What a privilege we had meeting this lovely couple who had invited us to spend time with them.  They wanted to show more but had a prior appointment that afternoon so with Vi-Lay navigating we took our leave making our way to Dolly Beach.

Taking the track to the south end of the island we parked the car where it said ‘Four Wheel Drive ONLY’.  From here we had to walk 2.5km down a narrow road that had two very steep hills.  We were so looking forward to our swim at the other end. When we reached the junction to Greta Beach we decided we could go no further. So turning off we found a small path to Greta Beach then a boardwalk which took us to a steep cliff with steel steps down the cliff face.  From the top we could see the beach and sea strewed with plastic debris.  We were so disappointed! Neither of us wanted to swim in that mess!  Hot and sweaty we trudged back up the track and the road and back to the car.

We had planned to see Margret Knoll en route back, pulling off at the signage we drove up to a gated track telling us it was closed and under camera surveillance! We were actually quite relieved.  From here we were determined to have our swim so headed directly to Flying Fish Cove. ‘Do not pass GO, do not collect $100 go straight to’… the beach!

The water was deliciously cool with so many fish so close to shore.  After our swim we met Pat and volunteer life guard, who just happened to be a friend of Clive and told us she and Clive were both CI Hash Hound Harriots.  We had a long chat with her before Jen and the Hash members arrived in their cars ready for a swim.  They too had been to Dolly Beach taking their cars down the road marked 4 wheel drive only which we didn’t feel was safe.  We later heard that one of the cars were not road worth being unable to close rear boot door.  That’s one less hire car!  Fortunately it was easily fixed later that day by the owner of the cars.

Having already eaten my second meal for the day, we had a snack providing energy for the afternoon.  In an effort to use us some of the food we had bought with us from Perth and to provide a picnic lunch for the following day, we cooked curried lentils with spinach.  To accompany this we cooked rice to which we added fresh coriander from the supermarket here and a can of sardines also from Perth. It was delicious.  We had decided not to eat out as we were quite disappointed at not only the cost but the quality and variety of food here preferring instead to cook for ourselves.

Monday, we were up early to make the most of the tropical weather.  On my way back from my jog I Vi-Lay on her morning walk and showed her Clive’s mansion by the cliffs.  Pat, who knew Clive had told us about a platform just down from his home where there was a cemented area for relaxing while viewing the ocean, it wasn’t that difficult to find.  From here we paused to appreciate the sunrise, thanking the Lord for His magnificent work displayed so spectacularly in His creation.  So tranquil and beautiful watching the sun coming up over the ocean.  Here we also saw Booby Birds nesting along the cliff top amongst the pandanus trees.

Today was our third day RAT. Praise the Lord all the group tested negative.  This was our last RAT before returning to Perth as one is no longer needed on re-entry.

Even thought we had our own vehicle we were still included in the group trip to the east side of Christmas as we had paid in advance for the group shared hired cars.  With the required number of five and provisions for the day packed into one of the cars we drove to the rendezvous at the other accommodation and waited.  It was quite a wait as not everyone was ready on time. We had packed our cooked rice and lentils into the cooler bag with a frozen water bottle to keep it all cool.  It worked perfectly.  Finally all were ready and the convoy of 6 cars headed to the only fuel station on the island to make sure all tanks were full for our big drive.

With full tanks we headed up the incline, past Poon Saan and Drumsite to the west side of the island, stopping first at Hugh Dale’s Waterfall. Walking along a boardwalk raised above the jungle floor, we eventually came to steps leading up to the waterfall. Some of the group went under the falls, which weren’t very large or spectacular but were the only falls on the island. Before our decent, I collected some of the cascading water for washing my hair in, as the tap water here was quite harsh. En route down, some of the cars took another track to see The Dales. There was a bit of confusion amongst the group, including me, who would have liked to have gone there too, but we weren’t told or didn’t hear that it was an option. As I was with the group in the front, I missed out when those behind turned off. I was waiting with about half the group where we had parked the cars. We waited and waited amongst the marauding mosquitos for the other half of the group to return. Fortunately, some of the stragglers who finally joined us explained what had happened to the missing members. We weren’t very impressed and eventually I suggested some of the cars (with the required number) could go on to our next destination, where we were to have lunch. Eventually this was agreed on and two cars went ahead to Martin Point. Here there was a short 150mt walk to a platform overlooking the sea, with a table and bench seats. Unfortunately it wasn’t very appropriate for our large group picnic, as not only was it in the searing heat of sun, but it was also occupied by another family. It was not what we had expected at all. Eventually the others joined us, the family left, and some of our group sat eating their lunch in the cars while others picnicked on the seats at the table in the sun. Vi-Lay and I decided we were not hungry, leaving our lunch for when we returned home, where we were able to warm things up in the microwave without the mosquito invasion. We relished every mouthful in the serenity of our room.

Meanwhile, back on the track, the more mature ladies of our group were unsure if they would go any further, as they were concerned about the car muffler, which was hanging low and catching on rocks along the road. Vi-Lay and I then joined other cars which had only 4 occupants. I jumped in with sister Jen and her roomies; they had air conditioning! Many of the hired cars were without air conditioning and most, if not all, had one or two dysfunctional rear safety belts.

As we drove, there were several road closures, which meant we had to go around the detours, then down a dirt track to our next destination: The Blowholes. I had remembered these from my childhood, water gushing out from the rocks along the cliff tops with a menacing roar. Here we saw more nesting Booby Birds, one with a tiny featherless chick. So cute!

As we drove back to the Settlement, Jen suggested we stop at the Whitcomb Locomotive #890 which was deteriorating in the undergrowth just west of Drumsite. From here we drove around Poon Saan so I could point out the places to buy the Malay kuih (sweetmeats) which friends from church had shown us. It was then back to the Settlement where Jen took us around the places where we grew up, before dropping me back at the room. Vi-Lay was there and asked where our lunch was. Oops! It was still in the back of the other car. Praise God for Clive’s car, as I was now running out of energy to walk the short distance back to collect it.

After our delicious lunch, we rested, before cooking up the local bananas which had been given to us by Lyn, who had acquired them from her daughter, Neesha’s landlord. He grew them in abundance around his apartments. They were delicious cut up and cooked in coconut milk; there was plenty to give back to Lyn and the three Jens to enjoy too. Had we know earlier that we could get local bananas, we wouldn’t have bought so many at such an exorbitant price from the tourist grocery store!

It was interesting how much food we had bought and the meals we had planned to cook before coming on our holiday. Because of the lack of cooking facilities on Cocos, all our meal planning came to nothing. I was still thankful we had brought our supplies, especially breakfast. I also enjoyed the puzzle of trying to make meals out of what we had in our provisions and it did save us a bit of money. If I were to come again, I would be more prepared as to what to bring, especially to Cocos: foods that can be prepared in a microwave and BANANAS!

Photos:  1. A flower from Richards garden    2. Can you see me standing on the school steps? I’m with my best friend Debbie   3. Our childhood home    4. Swimming in the Grotto      5. Me, Jen and Lyn on the school steps    6. Sunrise at Vi-Lay’s favourite spot    7. Zoom in and you can see a Booby bird nesting above me as well as all the plastic rubbish on Greta Beach    8. Flying Fish Cove    9. Walking through the jungle    10. The Blow Holes

Prayer & Praise Points:

I am in awe of God’s continual grace and provision for us as we travelled and explored Cocos and Christmas Island. What an awesome God and Father He is to His children.

Praise God for His abundance, the beauty in His creation and for His love towards us all.

Praise Him for answered prayer in keeping the rest of the group in good health and free from Covid and accidents. We saw His Hand of guidance and provision for us all the way through this journey, for which we are truly grateful.

Need I remind you to pray with me for peace in Europe, for all who are caught up in the suffering the war has caused, both in Ukraine and Russia?

Please continue to pray for my sisters, Tricia, Jen and Kat to come to know Christ’s love for them.