Last Days in Japan

Waking at 3am I had plenty of time to do my morning routine and get ready for the day. I took a lovely photo of Mt Ontake topped with snow at 4am then by 5am it was shrouded in clouds as the rain set in. Praise the Lord the rest of the day was clear and warm.  Breakfast was western style with sausage, eggs and salad with bread buns, yogurt and fresh fruit. I would have liked to have known in advance instead of eating my own in my room, still it didn’t stop me from having more.

My bags were then packed; the big one busting at the seams, I left with the other member’s bags in the foyer, to be transferred to our next overnight stop.  Our group then took a mini bus to our next starting point. On this, our fourth day, we were returning from the Kaida Plateau to Kiso Fukushima where we strolled through the town, stopping at a supermarket to buy something for our picnic lunch.  Here we also visited the reconstructed barrier station that stood here during the Edo period and is now a museum.  Then a short train transfer to Yabuhara, where we climbed the Torii Pass, named after the Shito torri gate that marks one of the four protective sites surrounding the sacred Mt. Ontake. At 1,197 meters, the Torii Pass is the second highest point on the Nakasendo. Before this pass we stopped at a shady lunch stop with seats and tables to enjoy our lunch and a rest after the steep climb.  Through many of these forests there were bells hanging on wooden stands for pilgrims to ring, warning the black bears that someone was passing.  Yuka carried a small bell attached to her backpack which had the same purpose.  From here we descended into Narai post-town which took us along a narrow mountain path, emerging at the outskirts of this famous post-town next to a joyato stone night lantern.  We had a lovely slow stroll through the hamlet to John Lennon’s famous vanilla ice cream shop.  Lennon had visited many years ago and had commented that it was the best vanilla ice cream he had ever tried.  None of our group was that impressed. We then separated to meet later at the train station.  As I strolled I noticed a scripture verse, Matthew 7:13-14 written on a blackboard in both English and Japanese and wondered if the building might be a church.  Before leaving Australia, Frances, from church gave me some Japanese Gospel tracts some of which I left along the way in my hotel rooms, hoping someone would find them, others I gave out to whoever I felt led to share with.

We took a train from here into Matsumoto. It was a 50min ride with lots of high school students, some of whom shared a seat with Kate and me to practice their English before alighting at their particular stations.  Arriving at our station, Yuka helped those of us needing to buy ongoing tickets for our next destinations.  I had contacted Satoshi to let him know I was still coming the following day and would let him know when I was on the train.  I was a bit nervous as I needed to change trains in Shinjuku and Nippori for Ajiki.

Once our tickets had been purchased, Yuka led us to our hotel where our luggage was waiting.  We were allocated our rooms and asked to meet in the lobby before going out for our last dinner together. It was so nice to have a shower as it had been a very hot day with little cloud cover.  We had now left the hills and the cool canopy covering of the forest to enter the lower lands and the cement jungle.  Dinner was just a stroll up the street, then after another short stroll to see the Matsumoto Castle at night, light up with lights, I left the group early to see if I could find mochi at the convenience store en route back to the hotel.  I did find a single packet which I opened the following day for lunch.  On my return to the hotel I nearly got lost so stopped at a small liquor stall to ask directions.  Not being able to speak Japanese and not remembering the name of the hotel, I showed them my room key which I presumed had the hotel name on it.  Praise the Lord, the hotel was just around the corner and across the road.  My good direction skills hadn’t let me down.

I was glad to get back and take my shoes off as my toes were quite sensitive after the steep descent.  I had tried to go bare footed to the restaurant but my fellow Aussies had frowned upon it.  I would have been ok as no one seemed to notice.  I had an early night but still woke at 11:30pm.  I was so looking forward to going back to my two meals a day routine. I took a sleeping tablet which took a while to work, but then woke to the sound of my alarm at 5am.  I needed to write up the previous days adventures before breakfast at 7am.  I gathered a few goodies secretly from the breakfast buffet to take with me for lunch as I was unsure where or if I’d have time to buy anything.  Although there are frequent trains from where I will need to change trains, I just was unsure if I’d have time as I didn’t want to arrive to late at Ajinki station.  Yuka also helped me by writing out some instructions both in English and Japanese to help me make the transfers and train connections.

We then walked to Matsumoto Castle where we climbed some very steep steps all the way to the top looking at the displays of weaponry and artefacts from that era. This castle was nearly demolished due to a belief that relics of the past should be destroyed.  It was then bought privately for preservation.  Later an organisation was set up to fund the repairs which took over 12yrs, saving it from ruin.

I didn’t linger at the castle as I wanted to get back and organise my bags before leaving. Having slept in I was a little behind the eight ball. By 10:20am, Yuka, the Australian couple, the couple from California and I took the shuttle bus provided by the hotel to the train station. Here we parted ways to board trains to our various destinations. I was taking an express train towards Tokyo getting off at Shinjuku. It was a two and a half hour journey so I had plenty of time to relax and catch up with my Bible study videos I’d been meaning to listen to for weeks. I was intending to eat my lunch late after catching the next train but this train was just an ordinary passenger train without tables and I wasn’t sure if we could eat on them.  At every station I continued to inquire which platform my next train was leaving and in most cases was directed towards the correct one. At Shinjuku I was at the correct platform but given the wrong train to board.  Praise the Lord I needed to go to the toilet so decided to take a later train as there were trains leaving every few minutes for the same destination or in the general direction I wanted to go. If I had caught the one that had been suggested, it was a regular commute train stopping at every station, so I would also have had to change trains again at another station.  The train I had a ticket for was a rapid train so I was so pleased the Lord once again intervened.  Also en route to find the toilet I passed a shop within the station that sold all sorts of desserts and breads and you guessed it, there were mochi. I bought two varieties a custard and a green bean paste.  They were delicious.

I had been communicating with Satoshi, from Couchsurfing, in Ajiki to let him know I my movements and then on the last train, whichever station I was passing along the way, so that he would know approximately what time I would be arriving at the station.  It had taken me three and three quarter hours since leaving Matsumoto. The first two and a half hours on the express were the most relaxing as I had a reserved seat and ended up with two seats to myself the whole way.  The second train was full but I did manage to find a seat for the elderly or disabled where I gratefully sat with all my luggage. This was from Shinjuku to Nippori then Nippori to Ajiki I was on the rapid train which was not so full.

Satoshi found me as I exited the station in Ajiki, then drove to the big supermarket where Yoshie, his wife was shopping. They took me down all the fresh food aisles, showing and explaining different foods and popping others into our shopping trolley which was nearly overflowing by the time we were ready to leave.  From here we drove in separate cars to their home amongst the rice paddies. I was delighted that we were not in the city. That evening over a very extravagant meal we exchanged stories and knowledge about all sorts of topics. Both Satoshi and Yoshie had a great grasp of the English language which made things very easy. They were very surprised when I told them about the Nakasendo Way trek, noting that Japanese tourists prefer to be driven from one attraction to another mostly for shopping.  Yuka had also mentioned this difference between foreign and Japanese tourists. By 10pm I was ready for bed, it had been a very long day.

I was relieved I’d slept so well waking at 4am.  Yoshie had made my futon bed on the floor of their multi-functional room just off the dining room.  This is also where Yoshie has her tea ceremonies of which she is very involved. I had a lovely quiet morning to myself, to do all my usual morning things, till around 6:30am.  After breakfast, Yoshie put on a load of washing, including mine from the four days walking tour, most of which I had quickly washed in the hotel sinks and wrung out, so it was lovely to get them washed properly.   I was then shown around the adjoining property which was Satoshi’s parents’ home. There were so many plum trees as well as other fruit trees. We then drove to the Chiba Prefectural Open-Air Museum, Boso-no-Mura.  Entry for seniors is free.  I don’t think I would have received this privilege had I not been with Satoshi and Yoshie. It was a very interesting display of old buildings lining a single street. Some of these shop fronts had traditional crafts workshops which visitors could participate in. They weren’t all open as it was a week day but we were able to stroll through the open stores to look at the displays. We chose to learn how to make herbal insect repellent using fresh herbs picked from the grounds and grinding them with a pestle and mortar. I was fascinated by the Book and Local newspaper shop which showed how the wood block printing was made. There was also a Tatami mat workshop where you could learn to make a tatami coaster. Before leaving we stopped for lunch at the Soba noodle shop.

From here it was a short drive to Narita Township where we bought ingredients to make Tempura.  The previous night it was various sushi dishes that filled the shopping trolley. I also stocked up on a few things for breakfast and snacks for my flight as well as another eyebrow pencil which wasn’t the same brand as before but very similar style and a lighter colour.  Then back to the house for a short rest before Yoshie started cooking the tempura which she brought to the table in batches and continued cooking.  I asked if she would join us but she said she ate as she cooked. I felt guilty but Satoshi said this was her normal routine.

I was exhausted by 8pm so went to bed and was asleep by 8:30pm I think the 50km walk was catching up with me. I slept through to 4am and felt better.  The Duolingo app had somehow taken me off the family plan I had joined up with through Mim, from the community garden. I was very annoyed as I was unable to access the revision which I usually did for 20 mins in the mornings.  I sent off a message to Mim asking if she could resend her joining request.  Praise the Lord that worked and the problem was solved.

Before leaving Satoshi and Yoshie’s home I gave one of the last Gospel tracks to Satoshi who said; while living in the US for a year he had attended church every week with his previous wife’s family.  I also gave him the link from the Way of Life  which was the link we used when I was witnessing for Australia for Jesus.  We later had an amazing time discussing Christianity and the differences between religions and a relationship with God, through Jesus Christ.

Once again I packed and repacked my bags trying to fit everything in including my cushion which I had carried on as hand luggage from Bali, this time I tied it tightly together with the help of Satoshi and stuffed it into my bigger bag.  Yoshie had been out shopping again, this time to buy things for cold soup ingredients for lunch. It was delicious as usual, with noodles, and lots of finely sliced cold meats and vegetables piled high in our bowls.  I certainly have been spoilt with a variety of Japanese foods while here in Japan.  What a treat. 12:30pm I was driven to the Narita airport which was 40mins away.  Fond goodbyes with invitation to return next year (if they are not off exploring Africa).

It was sad leaving Japan, I’d had such an interesting time exploring; quite an adventure.  It was now drawing to a close. I had met so many interesting people and visited such beautiful countryside. I was going to miss the mountains and the cool, clean air but I was looking forward to not having to pack my bags every morning!

Photos:  1. Yellow columbine (Aquilegia flavescens)    2. Mt Ontake from my window    3. Samurai warrior    4. Matsumoto Castle    5. Forest walk    6. Rendition by Yoshie and Satoshi

Prayer & Praise Points:

Praise the Lord for safe travels and no problems with my entry into Vietnam.

Praise the Lord for answered prayer and His leading and provision throughout my travels in Japan.

Please pray for the next leg of my journey in Hanoi, Vietnam and my stay there.

Please pray for all those who received tracts during my visit to Japan.  May the Holy Spirit bring His Word to life.

Please continue to pray for Jen and Ralf as they travel throughout Europe, may they be kept safe and enjoy their adventures too.

Continue to pray for world peace and countries dealing with major disasters, wars and the unbelievable hardships they cause.  Pray for all those caught up in the suffering these events have caused.  Pray that God’s peace may be known by all people especially for those who live with despair, that they will find hope in Christ Jesus.

Please keep my sisters, Tricia, Jen and Kat, in your prayers.  Pray that they will come to know the love of Jesus.